Saint-Nectaire

From the volcanic Auvergne, Saint-Nectaire is ripened on rye straw mats in cool, damp cellars. The rind is grey and earthy, the paste supple and creamy, the flavour nutty and mushroomy with a whiff of the cellar. Farmhouse (fermier) Saint-Nectaire, made with raw milk, carries an oval green label; dairy-made (laitier) versions carry a square one. Always ask for fermier.